Black and White Photography

9 Developing Film



Developing your film is a relatively straightforward and easy process. You treat
the exposed film in a succession of chemical solutions to make the latent image
visible and permanent. However, the logistics are a little more complicated. To
begin with, film is light sensitive, so you will need a darkroom (literally a room
with no light whatsoever) to load the film into a processing tank. This tank is
designed to keep light out, but allows you to pour the developing solutions in
and out of it until processing is complete.
Best results usually come from consistency and standardization. However,
there are some variables that can either cause problems or improve the final
results. Following is a discussion of the routine steps, as well as potential trouble
spots and creative controls you can use.
A photographic darkroom is a lighttight room containing the equipment needed
for developing film and/or making prints. In theory, you can use any room that
can be made completely dark, even a bathroom or large closet. (You often can
block window light with a black shade made of foam core, opaque plastic, or
plywood.) You should always use a room with good ventilation—or one in
which a ventilation system can be installed—because fumes from certain chemicals
can irritate some individuals or potentially cause other health problems.
Furthermore, you will need tables or countertops to hold the developing and
printing equipment. Running water is ideal, but not absolutely required; you
can use pails or other containers to bring water into the darkroom and take
used chemical solutions out of it, if necessary. Spaces that are not heavily used
are best, such as a spare bedroom, bathroom, or a room in the basement or
attic. This will allow you to keep the equipment ready for use; otherwise you
will have to set up and take down the darkroom for each working session.
You should keep your darkroom as clean as possible. Spilled chemicals may
cause contamination. They also may form dry residue that can be inhaled. So
take special care to leave the darkroom spotless after each use, particularly if
the darkroom is in your living space. Even well-cleaned areas may retain unpleasant
stains or odors, so never use a kitchen or dining room for a darkroom.
Also, avoid areas that children or pets can easily access.

A home darkroom is convenient because it’s generally available when you
need it, but most photographers find darkrooms outside the home more affordable,
practical, and healthy. Look for a good, well-ventilated darkroom at a
local school, camera club, or community center. There may even be a conveniently
located school, art space, or business that rents darkroom time. It might
even be worth enrolling in a class at your local art school, community college,
or adult education program, just to secure darkroom access. Ask the staff at
your local camera store if they know of any available darkroom space.
A darkroom outside your home may eliminate problems of space and odor,
and shared or rental facilities are more likely to be well equipped than any
home darkroom you build yourself. You also may meet a group of interested
individuals with ideas, information, and photographs to share. All this could
make your darkroom time more informative and engaging.
It’s a good idea to air out the darkroom you use, whether it’s well ventilated
or not. If possible, open windows and doors from time to time. When working,
take a break every couple of hours to walk around and breathe fresh air for a
few minutes before returning to the darkroom.
Film developing does not require complicated or expensive equipment. Following
is a list of equipment typically used for processing 35mm and mediumformat
films.
Processing reels and tank. Since film is light sensitive, you must develop it in total
darkness. To do this safely and efficiently, you turn off the lights and load exposed
film onto a spiral reel. You then place the reel in a lighttight processing
tank. Once the film is in the tank with the top secured, you can turn on the
room lights; the top of the processing tank has a light trap, an opening designed
to allow processing solutions in and out without letting in light.
Reels and tanks are made of either plastic or stainless steel. Plastic reels are
arguably easier to load. Stainless steel reels are more difficult to load at first,
but are generally more durable. Note that both plastic and stainless steel reels
can break or warp. This is especially true of equipment in a gang darkroom, a
school or other darkroom shared by many people. If possible, buy your own
reels and tank, preferably heavy-duty models that are less prone to damage
than lower-quality models.
Stainless steel reels fit only one size of film—usually 35mm or 120 (medium
format). If you shoot both kinds of film, you will need to purchase two separate
reels. Most models of plastic reels are adjustable to accommodate either size.
Processing tanks are available in several sizes to hold one, two, four, and
even more reels. The larger tanks are more expensive and a little unwieldy, but
they allow you to save time by processing multiple rolls of film at once.