Black and White Photography

windy days especially, use a relatively fast shutter speed to guarantee a sharp

image; or use a slow shutter speed to create blur, thereby emphasizing the

motion.

Deliberately blurring some subjects within an otherwise sharp image is an

effective way to show action, movement, or simply to create mood or atmosphere.

Keep the shutter speed fast enough so that stationary parts of the subject

(such as buildings, cars, and rocks) appear sharp, but slow enough so the

moving parts of the subject (such as running water or animals and people in

motion) blur. Or place the camera on a tripod, which will allow you to use a

very slow shutter speed and still keep many stationary subjects from blurring.

You also might try moving the camera during exposure in the same direction

as the subject’s motion, a technique called panning. For example, suppose

someone is riding past you on a bicycle, from left to right. By panning, you can

render the bicycle and rider sharp and cause the foreground and background

to blur.

As the subject moves past you, follow its motion by turning the camera while

pressing the shutter button. For an effective pan, the camera movement must

simulate the speed of the moving subject, which you can accomplish by keeping

the subject in the same location in the viewfinder as you move the camera.

Try panning at 1/8 or 1/15, then experiment with different speeds, but not

faster than 1/30.

While panning is a choice you can make, any deliberate or accidental camera

movement may cause image blurring. Accidental movement, sometimes called

camera shake, is one of the most common factors in unwanted image blurring.

Sometimes blur occurs because you are using a shutter speed that is too slow

to hold the camera steady by hand. But blur may result at almost any shutter

speed (except the very fastest) when you’re not careful to steady the camera before

making an exposure. Note that the effect of camera shake isn’t always an

obvious blur; sometimes it will show as a more subtle lack of overall sharpness.

Be very conscious of camera shake when holding the camera to your eye. In

particular, take pains to set yourself securely, and don’t talk or move any more

than necessary when taking a picture. Also, don’t remove the camera from its

eye-level position until you’re sure the shutter has closed and the exposure is

complete.

An individual’s ability to hold a camera steady varies, but the faster the shutter

speed, the less image blur there is—for everyone. To avoid the effects of

camera shake, follow this general rule: Don’t use shutter speeds slower than

1/30 or 1/60 when handholding your 35mm SLR when using normal or wideangle

focal lengths or zoom-lens settings. Bigger cameras and longer lenses require

even faster shutter speeds.

As a simple rule of thumb, turn the focal length of your lens into a fractional

number and use at least that speed when photographing with that lens. When

using a 50mm lens or a 50mm setting on your zoom lens, for example, make

sure your shutter speed is 1/50 or faster (usually 1/60, unless your shutter offers

1/50, which some electronic shutters do). When using a 200mm lens or zoom

lens setting, make sure your shutter speed is 1/200, 1/250, or faster.

When you have to use a shutter speed that is slower than recommended

above, use a tripod to steady the camera. If a tripod is unavailable, try bracing

the camera against a tree, car roof, or on a countertop. A beanbag or small

pillow placed between the camera and its brace will help cushion movement

further.

A tripod or other means of steadying the camera is often a good idea whether

you’re using a slow shutter speed or not. It helps you frame the subject more

carefully, and further reduces any chance of accidental camera movement.

However, it also limits spontaneity and restricts your ability to adjust your

camera position.