Black and White Photography

Rubber gloves. Handling most black-and-white photography chemicals is safe,
but some degree of skin sensitivity is fairly common—drying and chafing in
particular. (On rare occasions, chemicals can cause skin or other allergies.) To
best protect your skin, use rubber gloves when mixing and handling chemical
solutions.
Apron. Photographic chemicals can stain clothes (or whatever else they come in
contact with). A plastic, rubber, or cloth apron (dedicated to darkroom use)
will reduce that likelihood.
Thermometer. You will need a good thermometer because the temperature of
the processing solutions is critical for best results and must be monitored regularly.
Thermometers range in price and style, from expensive glass tubes containing
mercury to stainless steel units with a dial face to digital models. Most
types measure a wide temperature range (such as 30°F to 120°F). Analog models
have a scale in increments of 1°F, while digital models measure even more precisely—
and generally more accurately.
Timer. All processing steps must be timed with care, so you will need a timer
that measures accurately in minutes and seconds. Any clock or watch will do
the job, but an analog or digital photographic timer work best. Most models
emit an audible beep when the time is up.
Stirring rod. Use a stirring rod made for photographic processing to mix solutions
thoroughly.
Scissors. You will need to cut the film from the spool after winding it on a reel,
and you will have to cut dry film into strips for storage and handling. Blunt-end
scissors are safest, particularly because you will often be cutting in the dark.
Bottle opener. When processing 35mm film, you will need a bottle opener to pry
open the film cartridge. Photo stores sell film cartridge openers specifically
made for this purpose, but inexpensive church-key models from the hardware
store or supermarket work just as well.
Graduates, beakers, or other measuring containers. Before developing film, you
should mix and measure all the processing solutions so they’ll be ready when
you need them. Use glass or chemical-resistant plastic graduates, beakers, and
containers. Make sure there is a measuring scale on the side, preferably one that
gives you solution volumes in ounces and milliliters. You will need at least one large (32–64 ounce or 1000–2000 milliliter) and one small (about 4–8 ounce or
125–250 milliliter) model; the small one should measure 1/2 ounce or 25 milliliters
or less of solution accurately. If you have multiple large-size graduates,
beakers, or containers, you will be able to set up all the solutions before processing,
which will make the job easier.
Storage bottles. To keep processing solutions fresh, store them in tightly capped
bottles made of chemical-resistant plastic or dark glass. Bottles that collapse or
can be squeezed to eliminate excess air are especially good for extending the life
of your chemicals.
Funnel. You may need a funnel, usually made of chemical-resistant plastic, to
pour solutions into storage bottles that have narrow necks.
Film washer. A film washer is an acrylic tank that attaches with a hose to a water
outlet. You place processed film in the tank for a highly efficient wash. Note that
a film washer is an optional accessory, as there are ways to wash film without one.
Photo sponge or chamois. To facilitate drying, you can use a sponge, chamois, or
other soft cloth to wipe processed film. If you do, be sure to use a product made
for this purpose. Otherwise, you risk scratching the film as you wipe it down.
Film drying cabinet, or string or wire with film clips or clothespins. After washing
your film, dry in a space with as little dust as possible. Some darkrooms have a
dedicated drying cabinet with film clips for this purpose, but you can use an
empty cabinet, closet, or other contained space with string or wire stretched
taut from one side to another and spring-type clothespins to hang the film.
Negative protectors. Negatives are vulnerable to scratching or other physical
damage from contaminants, such as dust and dirt, and careless handling. As a
safeguard, use some sort of negative protector. There are several types available.
A popular choice is clear plastic pages containing individual sleeves for strips of
negatives. There are different sizes for different film formats. Most pages hold
an entire roll of film, which you must first cut in strips of five or six 35mm
frames, or some other number, depending on the page type and film format, and
then slide into the sleeves—one strip per sleeve.
These protectors are generally made of chemically inert plastic, and may
come with prepunched holes so you can file them away in three-ring binders for
convenient storage. Many photographers use a binder box, a type of three-ring
binder that seals shut to keep out dirt and moisture.