Black and White Photography

Follow these basic instructions for overmatting prints:
1. Determine the size of the mat by first measuring the print’s image size,
then subtracting the size of your image from the size of the mat board. For
instance, if your image is a vertical 6" x 9", you maywanta12"x16"mat
to provide a comfortable 3" border all around.
2. Get two pieces of mat board cut to that size—or cut the board yourself.
You can use almost any weight board, but you generally need at least a
4-ply board to make a good-looking bevel cut so try using 4-ply for the
overmat and 2- or 4-ply for the support board.
3. Prepare a counter or table for overmatting by clearing and cleaning it
thoroughly. Then place a covering surface, such as a large piece of mat
board or Kraft paper, on the counter or table.
4. Place the overmat board face down on the covering surface.
5. Use a pencil to draw the desired window size and location on the back of
the board to prepare the board for cutting; never mark the front of the
board. With some types of board you can use either side as the front or
back, while other types are one-sided.
Make sure your markings are even and straight and your corners are
square. There are different ways to accomplish this. One way is to do the
simple math. If your board is 12" x 16" and your print is 6" x 9", you
can have 3" borders on the top and both sides and a 4" border on the
bottom. Using a ruler (or T-square) and pencil, measure and rule up these
dimensions; remeasure all sides to ensure accuracy.
Alternatively, you can use a mat scribe to mark the required dimensions.
Set the scribe for the border measurement, such as 3" or 31⁄4", and
mark the window in pencil accordingly.
Regardless of your method of marking the window, you will want to
play it safe by making the window larger or smaller than the image size by
about 1/8". If you want to float the image inside the window (leave a thin
white border between the image edge and the window edge), increase the
opening by 1⁄8", to 61⁄8" x 91⁄8". If you don’t want the white border of the
print to show, reduce the opening to 57⁄8" x 87⁄8" so that it overlaps the
edge of the image slightly.
6. Cut one side of the window. Again, cut on a surface such as cardboard to
protect the counter or tabletop. Place your ruler along one marked side of
the window, holding it down tightly so it won’t slip. Make your cut with
a mat cutter, which allows you to make a beveled cut. A bevel provides a
smooth transition between the mat board and the image.
Before you use a mat cutter, set the depth and angle of the blade. Then
place the edge of the cutter along the edge of the ruler. Start close to your-self and push the cutter away from you to make the cut. Begin cutting just
inside the corner of the window to ensure that the cut does not extend
past the corner.
Work slowly, but steadily—and with a firm hand. Cutting an overmat
takes patience. Practice on scraps of board before making your final cut.
You will want to make sure the blade is set deep enough to cut through
your mat board, but not too deep—or it may wiggle when cutting and
produce an uneven window. Beyond that, keep the ruler and blade from
slipping, and don’t cut beyond the marked corners.
7. Cut the other three sides of the window, repeating the instructions in step 6.
8. Poke out the cut portion of the board, taking care not to tear it. The
board will have a window opening the size of the print image.
9. Smooth out rough cuts and slight tears in the corners where two cuts
meet. Work lightly with very fine sandpaper or a burnishing tool, such as
a burnishing bone or emery board. Then erase all pencil marks on the
back of the window mat to keep such marks from touching the surface of
the print.
10. Hinge the overmat to the support mat board using linen tape. Butt the
two boards together along the top side of each. The hinge goes on the
inside of the overmat, so be sure the front of the overmat faces down
when you are butting the two boards. Connect the boards with a piece of
linen tape.
11. Position the print in the overmat window by placing it loosely on the
support board and closing the overmat. Adjust the position of the print so
it fits in the window.
12. Place a weight, such as a short, dry drinking glass, on top of the print, so
it will not shift position. Make sure the print is covered first, perhaps with
a clean piece of paper so the weight won’t damage the print surface.
13. Raise the overmat and fasten the print to the support board with four
mounting corners. There are other methods of securing the print to the
support board, but mounting corners work well because they keep the
print in place without causing a permanent bond; if you want to remove
the print at any time, you can do so without damaging it.
14. Close the overmat. You can leave the overmat and support board attached
on one side only; there is no need to tape the boards closed on the
other side.


A book written By Henry Horenstein