Black and White Photography

12. Slide the reel, now loaded with film, onto the plastic center tube that comes

with the tank.

13. If you have another roll to develop, load it onto a second reel. Repeat steps

3 to 11.

14. Place the second loaded reel onto the center tube. If you only have one roll

to develop, place an empty reel on the tube above the loaded reel. Putting

one or more empty reels in the tank holds the loaded reels in place during

processing. Many models of plastic tanks take two reels, but if your tank

takes only one, skip steps 13 and 14; if it takes more than two reels, continue

loading film, as above.

15. Place the center tube with reels into the processing tank. If any of the reels

are empty, they should be positioned on top of the loaded reels. The end of

the center tube with a flared protrusion goes into the tank first.

16. Screw the tank top in place, making sure it clicks in securely. The center

tube and tank top work together to provide a light trap that keeps light

from entering the tank. Now it’s safe to turn on the room lights.

17. Put the watertight caponthe top of the tank, and you’re ready for processing.

Many plastic tanks come with an agitation rod, which is not really useful;

feel free to toss it out.

Stainless Steel Reels and Tanks

1. Follow steps 1–6 above for loading plastic reels and tanks.

2. Pick up the stainless steel reel in your other hand, and position it so the end

of the spiral on the outer rim of the reel faces the film. The film will not roll

onto the reel if the end of the coil faces away from the film.

3. Insert the cut end of the film into the center of the reel. Some reels have a slot or a clip in their center to hold the end of the film in place. Other models have prongs that fit into the sprocket holes on each side. Since the film is the same width as the reel, you will have to keep it pinched slightly to insert it into the reel; pinching too much could damage the film or make it difficult to load. Hold the film so that its natural curve follows the curve of the reel. 4. Place the reel standing upright on a counter, and position it and the film for loading. Imagine the reel is a clock, and the film is entering the reel at 3 o’clock (if you are holding the film in your right hand) or 9 o’clock (if it’s in your left hand). 5. Keeping the reel on the counter, slowly rotate it in a counterclockwise direction (clockwise, if you are holding the film in your left hand). Keep the film slightly pinched and don’t try to wrap the film around the reel, but let the rotating movement guide the film onto the reel. Stop when the film is fully loaded. A 36-exposure roll will fill the entire reel and finish at the outer rim; a 24-exposure roll will only partially fill it. 6. Take off the end of the film from the spool. If the film is attached with tape, you will have to cut it off with a pair of scissors. Make the cut close to the tape so you don’t cut into the last exposure on the roll. 7. Drop the loaded reel into the processing tank. Unlike plastic tanks, there is no center tube in stainless steel tanks.8. Load another roll of film onto a second reel, if you have another roll to develop. Repeat steps 2–7. 9. Place the second loaded reel on top of the first reel in the tank. Many models of stainless steel tanks take two reels, but if your tank takes only one, skip steps 8 and 9. If your tank takes more than two rolls, continue loading film, as above. If you are processing fewer rolls than the tank can hold, fill the tank with empty reels on top of the loaded ones to help hold them in place. 10. Put the waterproof top on the processing tank, making sure it fits securely. The top has a light trap that keeps light from entering the tank. Now it’s safe to turn on the room lights. The same basic instructions apply when loading medium-format film onto reels for processing—with some important differences. Note that both plastic and stainless steel tanks take either 35mm or 120 roll film. For example, a tank that holds two 35mm reels also holds a single 120 reel, while a four-reel tank holds four rolls of 35 mm and two of 120. If you use stainless steel, you will have to buy separate reels for 35mm and 120 film, but plastic reels usually expand to handle both film sizes. If you’re using a plastic reel, twist the spirals in opposite directions past the point where the ratcheting motion stops until they loosen, then pull the two halves apart.

Align the ends of the reel’s center column and ratchet them back in place to

accommodate the size of the film you are processing.

With size 120 medium-format film there is no cassette and no film leader.

However, there is a paper backing to protect film from light. As you load the

film onto the reel, you must separate this backing, which is attached to the rest

of the spool with a band of tape. It’s a little tricky, so practice first in room light

with a spare roll.

Roll films are wider than 35mm film and are more prone to physical damage

when handled. If you pinch the film too much, you may crimp it, which can

result in crescent-shape marks.

Once film is loaded on a reel and placed safely in the processing tank with the

lid secured, you can turn on the lights and begin processing. Pour solutions in

and out of the tank in the following order: presoak (optional), developer, stop

bath, and fixer. Then wash the film, preferably with a short water rinse,

followed by a fixer remover and final wash. Finally, treat the film in a solution

of wetting agent and hang it to dry.

With each chemical step, you must properly agitate the tank to keep the solution

in motion so it evenly treats the film for consistent results. Good agitation

technique requires both rotating and inverting the tank. Monitor solution temperatures

and time the process with care, moving smoothly from step to step.

Best results come when solution temperatures are consistent throughout. Exact

consistency may be difficult to maintain, but try your best. Don’t rush yourself,

but don’t hesitate between steps either. It helps if you keep separate containers

of solutions accessible and in their proper order, so you can move quickly

through the process, without having to stop to mix solutions. Follow these

steps for developing film.

Developing Film: Step by Step

1. Presoak (optional). Pour plain water into the loaded processing tank and

soak the film for 1 minute to soften the emulsion and promote even development.

After you pour in the water, gently tap the bottom of the tank a

few times against a table, counter, or sink to help dislodge air bubbles that

may otherwise settle on the film. Air bubbles may lead to air belles, circular

marks of uneven development, in the final negative.

2. Take the temperature of the developer and determine the correct developing

time by referring to the time-temperature chart for the film and

developer you are using. For this example, suppose normal development

time is 8 minutes.