Black and White Photography

3. Pour the developer into the processing tank, holding the tank at a slight
angle to facilitate pouring. Start timing the development when about half
of the solution is poured in, 5 seconds or so after you begin pouring. When
the solution is in the tank, tap the bottom of the tank gently against the
sink or counter a few times.
4. Put the cap on the top of the tank. Remove the cap when you need to
dump or add solutions, but remember to put it back on when you are
agitating the tank to prevent leaking.
5. Agitate the tank for the first 30 seconds of development. To agitate, gently
rotate the tank in a circular direction two or three times, and then invert it
once or twice. Repeat this rotation and inversion for the full 30 seconds—
no more or less. After 30 seconds, stop agitating and put the tank down
and gently tap the bottom of the tank.
6. Thirty seconds later, pick up the tank and agitate for 5 seconds only. For
the remaining time in the developer, agitate for 5 of every 30 seconds. Tap
the tank gently when you put it down each time.
Whatever method of agitation you choose, be careful to agitate consistently
and regularly during the development step. Underagitation (less than
the recommended time or no agitation at all) or overagitation (more than
the recommended time or constant agitation) may lead to under- or overdeveloped
film, uneven development, or possibly image streaking.
7. Pour the developer out of the processing tank. Start pouring 5 to 10 seconds
before the developing time is up, taking into consideration that the
film continues to develop until you add the next solution (stop bath). If
you’re using a one-use developer, discard the used solution.
8. Pour stop bath into the processing tank as soon as all of the developer is
poured out. Start timing when you have entirely filled the tank with stop
bath. Soak the film in this solution for 30 seconds to 1 minute.
9. Agitate the tank for at least half the time required for the stop bath by
rotating and inverting the tank as in steps 5 and 6. Make sure the cap of
the tank is on before inverting.
10. When the time is up, pour the stop bath out of the processing tank. Start
pouring 5 to 10 seconds before time is up. Store the solution for reuse in a
clean bottle or storage container marked “used stop bath.” Mark the number
of rolls treated on the side of the container so you can discard the solution
before it exceeds its capacity.
11. Pour in the fixer. Fix the film for 3 to 5 minutes with rapid fixers or 5 to 10
minutes with standard fixers, depending on the brand of fixer, the freshness
of the solution, and the film type. Certain films may require a longer
fixing time: about 5 to 8 minutes for rapid fixers and 8 to 10 minutes for
standard fixers.

12. Agitate the tank for at least half the time required for the fixer—or even for
the entire time—by rotating and inverting the tank as in steps 5 and 6.
Make sure the cap of the tank is on before inverting.
13. When the time is up, pour the fixer out of the processing tank. Store the
solution for reuse in a clean bottle or storage container marked “used
fixer.” Before reusing the fixer (at a later date), use a fixer-check solution
to test its freshness, or mark the number of rolls fixed on the side of the
container. Discard the solution before it exceeds its capacity.
After film has been fixed, you can safely view it in light if you are anxious
to see it. Open the top of the tank, remove a reel, and unwind a few inches
of the film to see how it looks. It’s best not to unwind the whole roll,
however, as you should keep film on the reel for an efficient wash. Moreover,
rolling the film back onto a wet reel, especially a plastic one, can be
difficult. When unwinding, handle the film with great care, as it’s easily
scratched or otherwise physically damaged when wet.
14. Take the top off the tank and rinse the film with water. Rinsing (also called
first wash) usually takes 5 minutes and washes away some of the chemicals
and other contaminants that may harm the long-term life of your film.
15. Empty the water from the processing tank and put the top back on, after
the first wash is complete.
16. Pour fixer remover into the processing tank. Treat the film with fixer remover
for 2 to 5 minutes, depending on the brand of fixer remover you use
and the freshness of the solution. This solution removes residual contaminants
left over from the fixer, and shortens the required time for the final
wash.
17. Agitate the tank for at least half the time required for the fixer remover—
or even for the entire time—by rotating and inverting the tank as in steps
5 and 6. Make sure the cap of the tank is on before inverting.
18. When the time is up, pour the fixer remover out of the processing tank.
Store the solution for reuse in a clean bottle or storage container marked
“used fixer remover.”
19. Take the top off the tank and wash the film. This final wash usually takes
5 to 10 minutes.
20. Empty the water from the processing tank after the final wash is complete.
21. Pour wetting agent into the processing tank. Soak the film for 30 seconds
to 1 minute. Pour in the wetting agent gently, and don’t agitate the tank.
Agitation may cause soapy bubbles, which can result in streaks or scum on
the surface of the dried film.
22. When the time is up, pour the wetting agent out of the processing tank.
Store the solution for reuse in a clean bottle or storage container marked
“used wetting agent.”

23. Take the reel(s) out of the processing tank, and remove the processed and
washed film—now a roll of negatives. Handle film by its edges with care.
24. Hang the film to dry in either a film-drying cabinet or from a string or wire,
using a film clip or spring-type clothespin. Weight the film at the bottom
with another clip or clothespin to prevent the film from curling as it dries.
Dry film in a dust-free environment. Otherwise, your film may pick up
dust, scratches, and other defects when drying—a very common problem
in a school or other gang darkroom.
25. (Optional) Gently wipe hanging film from top to bottom on both sides
with a very clean photo sponge, chamois, or other soft cloth dipped in wetting
agent. This helps film dry more quickly and with less streaking. Note
that not everyone recommends wiping, as it also can scratch film if you are
not careful. Do not squeeze the film as you wipe or you may scratch it.
After you are finished, store the sponge, chamois, or cloth in a plastic bag
(such as a sandwich bag) to keep it clean until you use it again. If you see
scratches and/or streaking after wiping the film, skip this step when processing
subsequent rolls.
26. As soon as it is dry, store the film to keep it clean and scratch-free. Film
generally takes 1 to 3 hours to dry, depending on the temperature and
humidity of the environment. Check the bottom of the film; it dries last so
if it feels dry then the entire roll should be dry. Remove the film from the
clips, and place it on a clean counter or other surface for cutting (wipe and
dry the surface before putting the negatives on it). If you have a large light
box available, place the negatives on that. Carefully cut the negatives into
strips, usually of five or six frames each, depending on the type of film and
negative protectors you are using. Then gently slide the strips into the
protector, one strip per slot. Take care not to scratch the negatives as you
slide them in.
You must wash film thoroughly to remove remaining chemical compounds which
could cause future image deterioration. For a complete wash, you will need to
use fixer remover and then wash for a specified period of time. Equally important,
however, is an efficient washing method. To guarantee an efficient wash,
use a washing method that ensures a constantly changing supply of fresh water.
Achieving a constantly changing water supply can be complicated. Many
photographers use a film washer—usually an open plastic tank that attaches to
a water faucet with a hose. As you turn on the faucet, water enters the bottom
of the tank and pushes water out the top, providing a continuously fresh supply
of water.